Saturday, October 29, 2016

Shahi Tukda / Saffron & Cardamom Indian Bread Pudding




This time of the year is truly magical, a season I really look forward to. Who can remain immune to the charm of the earthen lamps, the twinkling lights, colorful sky lanterns and the flowers, not to mention the virtual shower of sweets and snacks all over social media! The slight nip in the air promises Christmas bells around the corner, I can almost smell the warm spices and the candied peel. I am to shoot during the next week for my YouTube channel, need to get ready for the Christmas shoot soon after. With so much to be done, there is eagerness & anticipation, the rest of the challenges notwithstanding, life looks good!  

Diwali is a festival I love, the excitement has long since shifted away from fireworks and the kind. It is now more about just having family around, the customary potluck with old friends and soaking in the festive milieu. Priorities and perspective changes as we grow older, hopefully wiser too! When it comes to cooking for festivals, I have never been the kind to slog in the kitchen for hours. It is always simple fare, not much by way of deep-fried snacks ( deep-frying never excites me), but a sweet dish is a must for all of us. 

Shahi Tukda or Saffron & Cardamom Indian Bread Pudding is just my kind of dessert. The combination of the crisp bread slices with the chilled rabri and nuts is something I adore. The bread is normally deep-fried, but it is way too rich for our palates, so I prefer shallow frying. The rabri can easily be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator the previous day. The bread can be shallow fried just before serving time, so it is slightly warm and really crisp. Here is my version of Shahi Tukda, do tweak it to your taste. 




Shahi Tukda /Saffron & Cardamom Indian Bread Pudding 
(to make 6-8 servings)

For the rabri / milk pudding

What you need : You will need a wide, thick bottomed kadhai / deep pan, big enough to allow stirring without the milk spilling out. A good strong ladle or a flat slotted skimmer to help break the layer of cream on the top of the milk effectively. A small clean plate near the stove to keep the ladle on when not in use. Be sure everything you use is really clean, free of any acidic substances as it may cause the milk to split. A small cup to soak the saffron in.

Ingredients: (Makes about 1 liter of rabri, depending on how thick you want it)

Whole milk (at least 4.5% fat) : 3 liters / 12 cups
Sugar - 6 - 8 tablespoons
Saffron strands - a generous pinch or two
Cardamom powder - 1/2 teaspoon
Sliced pistachios and or sliced toasted almonds - 1/3 cup
Extra chilled milk and powdered sugar to adjust the consistency if needed on chilling.
  • Bring the milk in the pan to a boil, reduce the heat to low.. 
  • Reserve 2 tablespoons of hot milk from the pan, soak the saffron in it, cover and let infuse.
  • Simmer the milk on low, checking every 8 -10 minutes. 
  • Using the ladle or skimmer, scrape the cream at the sides as and when it forms, back into the milk. 
  • Break the layer of cream on top with continuous, stirring motions on the surface of the milk. Its important to break the layer of cream which will keep forming on the top too. Or you will end up with long bits of dry-ish cream in the milk. (Some people do prefer it that way).
  • Avoid scraping the bottom as you may get unappealing brown bits here and there. Continue doing this every 8-10 minutes or so, while you keep a constant watch on the milk. Do not let the milk boil over or form too thick a layer of cream on top. Do not leave the milk unattended for more than 10 minutes.
  • What we want to do is let the milk reduce, while scraping back every bit of cream into the simmering milk. What you do want is very thick pudding, full of bits of soft cream (not smooth like condensed milk, not grainy like mava / khoya). It will have lots of  soft cream bits, but will still be homogenous.
  • The milk will become very thick and reduce to almost a third. You can reduce more or less as you prefer. This takes about 2.5 hours. Do remember, the pudding will thicken further on cooling.
  • The time will vary depending on the quantity you are making, the pan and the heat given, so go by what you see in the pan.
  • Five minutes before you turn off the heat, add 6 tablespoons sugar and the saffron infused milk. This may alter the consistency slightly, but the basundi will thicken again as it cools. 
  • Once you take it off the heat, cool, add the cardamom powder and the sliced pistachios. Taste. Add some powdered sugar if needed.
  • Chill thoroughly. If the pudding is very thick on chilling, add some chilled milk little by little to adjust the consistency.
Please note : Use whole milk with at least 4.5% fat for best results. Low fat milk will neither give the consistency needed nor enough yield. You could use a touch of rose water if you wish.

For the bread slices
Bread, preferably white milk bread - 6-8 slices, crust trimmed
Ghee - 2-3 tablespoons or as needed
Toasted, slivered nuts like almonds & pistachios for garnish - 1/4 cup

For the simple syrup

Water - 1/2 cup
Sugar - 1/3 cup (or to taste)
Saffron strands - a few

Heat together the water, sugar and saffron till the sugar melts and the syrup is slightly thick.


Method : Toast the bread slices on a on-stick tawa using the ghee as needed. We need the slices golden and crisp. Cut them diagonally, brush the slices lightly with the sugar syrup. Place 2 pieces on each serving plate. Pour generous portions of the rabri over the bread. Garnish with the nuts and serve immediately. You can also let it sit for a while if you like the bread soft. 



Wish you a very happy Diwali and a wonderful year ahead!















Monday, July 4, 2016

Chocolate Tuiles With Cherry Diplomat Cream


Oh yes I just needed yet another reason to make one of my favorite things - tuiles!  I honestly don't recall liking cherries all that much, I had obviously not tasted the good ones. This season has been different. I am actually looking out for cherries and even planning to freeze some for later use. Bright red cherries, delicious and elusive even during the season are the the inspiration behind this dessert and post.

I made the tuiles first, unsure if I would be able to whip the dairy cream. Or even find cherries for that matter! Just as well, I told myself, tuiles are supposed to keep well for about a month stored airtight. The tough part is guarding those seriously fragile cookies from breaking, the humidity another challenge!

I was so thrilled to whip dairy cream and loved the taste of it. This opens up so many more possibilities I just can't wait to try! The small big joys of being a  home baker in India. I checked on it now and then just to make sure it hadn't turned into something else! Thankfully it retained its shape and texture quite satisfactorily.


Luckily, I found cherries at a nearby store, though I had to shell out some extra bucks, but worth it. Or I would have spent more time worrying about the precious cookies and a chance to put up a blog post. Rushed home to take a couple of pictures of the gorgeous fruit in the fading evening light.

Made some pastry cream, popped it into the refrigerator to chill. All I had to make was the cherry compote in the morning, cool and fold it in with the whipped cream and pastry cream. And that diplomat cream turned out to be delicious, I suspect it had to do with the taste of the dairy cream! I had invited a friend to taste the dessert. Hurriedly shaped the tuiles lest there should be a power failure. 



After she arrived, filled the dainty, crisp cookies filled with the diplomat cream and served with some compote alongside.

Cherry compote. I had to change the recipe slightly. Please do refer this post by David Lebovitz

Fresh cherries - 200 grams
Sugar - 2 tablespoons (or as needed)
Water - 1/2 cup
Cornstarch - 1/2 teaspoon

Wash, stem and pit the cherries. Take all ingredients in a heavy saucepan, cover and simmer on low heat till the cherries are cooked through and mushy. I had to add water as the cherries did not leave out much juices. I have dissolved the cornstarch in a teaspoon of water and added to the cherries, cooked till it thickened and turned syrupy. Cool and use as needed. Leftovers can be frozen.

To assemble

Chocolate tuiles - 12-15 .Recipe here
Pastry cream, chilled - 1 cup. Recipe here
Whipped cream, lightly sweetened and chilled  - 1/2 cup or to taste
Cherry compote - 1/3 cup 

Fold in the whipped cream into the pastry cream. Fold in the cherry compote. Arrange the tuiles on a plate. Spoon the mixture gently taking care not to break them. Serve immediately with more compote on the side.







Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Puff Pastry Tarts With Lime Cream & Poached Pears (eggless)




Having puff pastry in the freezer is dangerous and very tempting! I had some leftover when I made this Really easy puff pastry last month, hope you do try it sometime! I sound like an unruly kid  but I would have made more and stashed it away if only the mercury levels hadn't shot up so suddenly! No, am not a summer person at all and puff pastry is just another reason for me to adore winters. 

I was contemplating making 'something' with that pastry when I noticed that some strawberry ice cream I had made hadn't set inspite of freezing it overnight. Alarm bells clanged like crazy! Was the puff pastry ruined already? I had to make something real quick!

I sent up a prayer, put the pastry in the refrigerator to thaw, and then made some quick orange and lime posset. I have made it more than 3 times now and absolutely loved the simplicity of this refreshing summer dessert. Just 3 ingredients and 10 minutes is all it takes to put together this ridiculously easy make-ahead cream. You can serve it as it topped with fresh fruit like strawberries, kiwi fruit or mangoes. 

If I have managed to tempt you just a bit, do watch this video on the posset, I promise you will make it soon! 




And then I poached a couple of pears in vanilla syrup, left it to chill. All I had to do was bake the pastry the next day and serve. I love recipes like this, where each element can be made well ahead, makes it all so easy, but satisfying. The plan was to serve the cream and poached pears on top of the flaky pastry. 





Ingredients: To make 12-15 little tarts

Puff pastry - 1 recipe
Lime and orange cream - 1 recipe
Firm pears - 2-3
Water - 1.5 cups
Sugar - 1/4 cup or more to taste
Vanilla bean - 1/4 

Make the cream ahead and refrigerate overnight to set. Thaw the puff pastry overnight (if you have stored it in the freezer)

To poach the pears :

Wash and peel the pears, slice into half lengthwise. Bring the water, sugar and the vanilla bean to a simmer. Lower the pears into it and simmer on low heat for about 5 minutes. The pears must be soft enough to pierce a knife easily into it, but not mushy. Turn off the heat and let the pears cool in the syrup. Slice them decoratively ( mine were badly bruised in places so could make them look pretty at all!), leave in the syrup. Refrigerate airtight till serving time. You could serve these as it with some whipped cream or vanilla ice cream for a light dessert. 

To bake the puff pastry :Line a baking tray with baking parchment.  Remove the pastry from the fridge and leave it on the counter for about 10 minutes. Just till it is firm but malleable enough to roll with just gentle pressure. Dust flour lightly on the counter. roll the pastry 3-4 mm thick and cut out circles using a cookie cutter. Prick all over with a fork to prevent the pastry from puffing up in the oven. 

Place the circles on the lined sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer if needed. Bake at 180 C for 25-30 minutes or till golden and crisp. Store airtight if needed.

To serve : Just before serving, rewarm the pastry. When it is no longer hot or even warm, spoon the cream and top with the drained pear slices. Serve immediately without any delay. 




It was a relief to see the pastry turn out crisp and flaky, in spite of the obvious problem with the freezer. The dessert did not look pretty as I had thought it would, but it surely made an enjoyable dessert for us. And I guess in the end , that's all that matters! 


Thursday, February 18, 2016

Îles Flottantes / Floating Islands




Îles flottantes or Floating Islands is the intriguing name of this traditional French dessert.  Fluffy  poached meringue floating in chilled crème anglaise, garnished with shards of caramel. A summer dessert was my thought when I drooled over it first! Not that you need to wait for a particular season or reason to relish anything good! The soaring mercury levels just make ‘cool and sweet’ a much more welcoming thought.

Whether or not a particular recipe makes to my list of favorites is immaterial, a new technique is compelling enough to give it a try. Meringue is magical of course and I had never poached whipped egg whites.  So I did not waste any time making some orange crème anglaise, left in the fridge to thicken and chill really well . Washed and dried the bowl and beaters to whip the whites the next day.  I can be quite annoyingly obsessive here! 

Whenever I leave homemade custard to chill, I just can’t resist eating it by the spoonful.  But I do keep reminding myself that  it is a component of the dessert and I must stay away from it.  Just as well, this orange scented custard stayed in the fridge in my baking kitchen or it would not have made it!




It was amazing to see spoonfuls of whipped meringue puffing up like crazy within seconds when poached! You must watch this if you haven’ t yet. They tuned out spooky light and soft. The caramel is optional but added a very nice textural contrast, so do not skip it. It felt a bit weird to eat the poached meringue, but I might develop a taste for it!

This recipe is from Dorie Greenspan, from her book Baking – From My Home To Yours. Have taken Dorie’s very clear recipe ad verbatim from here

So this is how we go about it.    


    
For the Crème Anglaise:

Whole milk : 480 ml / 2 cups 
Egg yolks - 108 grams / 6 large (careful when you separate, keep the whites for the meringue)
Sugar - 100 grams / 1/2 cup
Pure vanilla extract 
1½ teaspoons


For the Islands:


Milk -  480 ml / 2 cups 
Egg whites - 120 grams / 4 large,  at room temperature
Cream of tartar - 1/2 teaspoon
Sugar - 50 grams / 1/4 cup

For the Caramel (optional)

Sugar - 100 grams / ½ cup sugar
Water - 80 ml / 1/3 cup 

To make the crème anglaise: Traditionally the milk used to poach the whites is used for making the custard, but if you love your custard chilled, make it at least 8 hours ahead.  For a detailed recipe with tips, please refer this post if making homemade custard for the first time.


Bring the milk to a boil.

Meanwhile, put the yolk and sugar in a heavy saucepan and whisk vigorously until thick and pale, 2 to 3 minutes. Still whisking, drizzle in a little of the hot milk — this will temper, or warm, the yolks so they won't curdle. Whisking all the while, slowly pour in the remaining milk. Put the saucepan over medium-low heat and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook until the custard thickens, lightens in color and coats the spoon (this can take 10 minutes or so) — if you run your finger down the spoon, the track should remain. For this recipe, the crème anglaise should be cooked until it reaches 180˚F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately remove the pan from the heat, strain the custard into a bowl and stir in the vanilla extract. Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of the custard to create an airtight seal and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, or for up to 3 days. (The crème anglaise will improve with at least on overnight rest.)





To make the islands: Please read this post on separating and whipping whites if you have never whipped whites before.  Watch the above video about separating eggs. 

Spread a clean kitchen towel on the counter near the stove and have a large slotted spoon at hand. [The towel will help the floating islands drain after poaching.] Put the milk in a wide saucepan and bring it to a simmer over low heat.

Meanwhile, put the egg whites in the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or use a large bowl and a hand mixer. Beat the whites on medium speed just until foamy. Add the cream of tartar. When the eggs turn opaque, increase the mixer speed to medium-high and add the sugar about 1 tablespoon at a time. Whip until the meringue is firm but satiny and still glossy.

You have two options in shaping the islands: you can just scoop up some meringue — specifically, an amount about twice the size of an egg — in which case you'll have the equivalent of a rocky volcanic island, or you can smooth the meringue to get a manicured island. For the smooth look, use a large oval spoon to scoop up the meringue, then use another large oval spoon to very gingerly transfer the meringue from spoon to spoon a couple of times to form a smooth oval. 

Do not worry about the shape of the ‘islands’ they are meant to look homey. So you have every excuse to forget that ‘neat’ bit! 


Either way, one by one, lower the islands into the simmering milk, adding only as many islands as you can fit into the pan without crowding. Poach the meringues for 1 minute, gently turn them over and poach 1 minute more, then lift the islands out of the milk and onto the towel. Repeat until you've poached 12 islands. Put the puffs (which will have inflated when poached and will deflate when cooled) on a wax paper-lined baking sheet and chill them for at least 1 hour, or for up to 3 hours.

To make the optional caramel: Decide whether you want to serve the meringues in one large bowl or six individual bowls, and have the bowl(s) at hand.

This needs to be made at the last minute literally before you pass on the bowl. Please do read this post if making caramel for the first time. 

Right before serving, stir the sugar and water together in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat, bring the sugar to a boil and cook without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel turns a pale gold color, 6 to 8 minutes or so. Pull the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool just until it is thick enough to form threads when it is dropped from the tines of a fork. (If the caramel hardens, rewarm it slowly over low heat.)

Either pour the crème anglaise into a large serving bowl and top with the meringue islands, or make six individual servings. If using the caramel, working quickly, dip the tines of a fork into the caramel and wave the fork over the floating islands to create threads that will quickly harden.

Serving: Once the dessert has been assembled, it should be served immediately.

Storing: You can make both the crème anglaise and the meringue puffs in advance and keep them chilled, but the assembled dessert won't keep.





I also read about baking the meringue for this desert and I am certainly going to be trying that as well! (I can see the French purists glare at me) Expect an update here on what I liked better – the baked meringue or the poached one!

Should you try this? If you love crème anglaise and everything eggy, absolutely!              
if making caramel for the first time

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

The Easiest Rough Puff Pastry! For Beginners





The onset of winters and the nip in the late evening air invariably reminds me of puff pastry. When I wash my hands after dinner, the icy cold water tells me it is a good time to try a new recipe for it! I have made this recipe by Alice Medrich a few times and loved it.  This time I wanted to try an easier recipe and to my delight came across this really simple one which the Daring Bakers had baked last year. Winter, ruefully, was almost gone by the time I finally got around to making it. Michel Roux will be shocked and disapprove as I made it in temperatures which he says is sauna for puff pastry! Well,  just until we install that AC in the kitchen! Was happy nonetheless with the outcome considering how easy it is! Surely am going to be making this recipe quite often, winter or not. 

Classic puff pastry of course is quite an involved and lengthy process, rough puff is much easier. Particularly in this recipe, the small quantity makes it easier to roll and fold and generally makes it easier to handle the pastry. If the quantity is large, the dough needs to be rolled into longer dimensions, slightly tricky to handle, more chances of tearing the dough. Here the cold butter is simply cut into the flour - as you would for a pie crust. And then the dough is given a few turns after chilling in between. And the results are not bad at all! So if you have never made puff pastry, here is the perfect recipe to start with!  

The post is going to be lengthy again (yawn!) but details do make a great deal of difference. So please so read very carefully and follow the recipe to the T. Practice of course goes a long way in perfecting these techniques and these are just my baby steps into making puff pastry. Here is sharing what I have gathered so far. 

The post is lengthy, but the method is simple as you will realize! Be sure to plan well ahead.

Please note
  • Weigh all ingredients including water. 
  • Use the tools recommended. 
  • Do not attempt a whole wheat pastry, all purpose flour is best to start with.
  • The ideal temperature for making puff pastry is supposed to be 18-20C. Higher temperatures and your butter will go soft sooner, making it difficult to handle the pastry. If you have an AC in the  kitchen (I envy you) have fun,
  • Make this in a very cool kitchen - preferably late evening. You do not want your gas stove or oven on as it will make the kitchen warmer. 
Time needed

2 hours plus overnight chilling. 
Hands on time 10-15 minutes.

What you will need
  • A 12 inch ruler (with the inch markings clearly visible!)
  • A metal dough scraper
  • A long rolling pin
  • Cake lifter (in the image below) or anything large and flat with a fairly sharp edge.
  • A large fork
  • A silicon brush for brushing excess flour on the pastry.
  • Cling film
  • Space in your refrigerator

Ingredients: 

  • Unsalted butter, very cold, cut into 1/2 inch cubes - 140 grams (Remove  25 grams of this, keep in a separate cup)
  • The butter must be very, very cold and firm, but not frozen solid. 
  • All purpose flour / maida - 126 grams
  • Salt - 1/4 teaspoon
  • Ice cold water - 50 grams (less than 1/4 cup, please weigh)
Extra 1/2 cup flour in a bowl for dusting (we won’t use it all of course)

Do ahead:
  • Sift the flour and the salt, chill airtight in the fridge.
  • Cut the butter (the size of the cubes is important), weigh and then chill it. Do not chill and then weigh just before making the pastry, the butter will go soft. 
  • Weigh water and keep it in the freezer. You want it very, very cold. Keep two tablespoons cold water in another glass in case you need more water.
  • Take a printout of the recipe, you won't be able to navigate screens with messy hands. 

Finally doing it! 

Remember - at any point while making the pastry, if your butter goes very soft, you can refrigerate it till the butter firms up again.

Make sure your counter is clean and dry. Do not keep any other liquids on the counter. 



  • Take the chilled flour on your counter and dump the 25 grams of cold butter on it. (Let the rest of the butter & cold water remain in the fridge)
  • Using the dough scraper, cut the butter into the flour, so that the mixture resembles bread crumbs. (alternatively, you can do this in a bowl with a pastry cutter)
  • Then dump the rest of the butter on top of the flour.
  • Toss them into the flour, coating them with the flour. Now using the metal bench scraper, cut the butter into the flour so that the butter is cut into smaller pieces, the size of a large peas approximately. If in doubt, err on the side of the pieces being larger than smaller.
  • Keep lifting any dry flour around with the bench scraper and toss it on the butter. (read note at the end)
  • Make a well in the center of the flour mixture.

  • Get that 50 grams of water from the fridge, pour it into the well.
  • Using the fork or the scraper mix till the all the flour is moistened. Do not worry if it still looks kind of dry, it will come together. Adding excess water can make the pastry tough. Carefully, sprinkle a teaspoon or less of the extra cold water if needed if the dough is extremely dry. The amount of water may vary depending on humidity. As long as your pastry comes out crisp and light, the quantity of water should not be a concern.
  • Very gently, knead or squeeze the dough a couple of times, just enough to bring it together to make a rough block.Do not over work the flour
         
  • It will be looking very rough at this point, with the butter pieces clearly visible. 
  • (The original recipes mentions you can start rolling the dough at this point, but I found the butter goes soft, so I have chilled the dough periodically)
  • Flatten and wrap the square in cling film and refrigerate 20 minutes. Do not refrigerate too long or the pastry will be too firm to roll. 
  • Every time before you get the dough back from the fridge for rolling, scrape the counter and rolling pin clean, lightly flour the counter. 
  • Place the ruler on the counter, roll the pastry with very gentle pressure -  10 inches long and 5 inches wide. Lift it using the cake lifter, turn gently now and then, so that it does not stick to the counter. Brush excess flour using the silicon brush.
  • Fold it into thirds like a letter as shown in the image. Place on the cake lifter, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 20 minutes again. This is the first turn. 
  • With the the short side facing you, roll the pastry into a 10'' x 5'' rectangle again. Brush excess flour. Fold into a letter, wrap and refrigerate again for 20 minutes. This will be the second turn.
         

  • Repeat till you do 6 turns, refrigerating in between for 20 minutes. Each time you roll, the pastry will look less rough. If it is warm, a bit of butter may ooze out as you roll, that should not be totally disastrous. 
  • After the 6th turn, roll the pastry into a 10'' square, wrap tightly in cling film and refrigerate overnight. 

Using the pastry

The pastry will be firm after refrigerating overnight. Cut as much as you need, take the needed portion, wrap in cling film and leave on the counter for 10-15 minutes or longer (if the weather is very cold) The dough must be soft enough to roll with just gentle pressure. If you roll with more pressure, the layers you have created with care will get glued together and your pastry will not be flaky and light. 

Once the dough is soft, roll with very gentle pressure on a lightly floured area into 3-4 mm thick sheets. Cut into desired shapes and again refrigerate 30 minutes (or freeze for sometime till firm). The butter will firm up again and give you a more flaky pastry.

Bake at 180 C for 25-30 minutes or till the pastry is golden and crisp. Serve warm. This is important. You can fill the rolled pastry, refrigerate and bake.





The baked pastry can be refrigerated for 2 of days airtight or frozen wrapped airtight for a month or so. Reheat in the microwave before serving. Always serve warm as the butter will solidify as it cools, that will actually taste terrible.

The unbaked pastry can be double wrapped in cling film and frozen for a month. Thaw still wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator before using. 

Please note : I have tried this pastry 3 times. Once I cut only 25 grams butter into the flour, the rest I have just tossed into the flour and brought it together (without cutting it in, the rest of the method remains the same) this works well too, but the pastry may be slightly more difficult to roll. This gave me lighter and flakier pastry (the first image at the beginning of the post). Try the cutting in (all the butter) method first and then experiment with the other method. I will stick to cutting in only 25 grams and mix in the rest. 

Try topping your baked pastry with some oven roasted tomatoes, onion and basil. Recipe here



Or try this delicious dessert - Orange whipped curd sandwiched between layers of flaky pastry. Recipe here




You will discover more recipes as you go, but this one makes the perfect first puff pastry recipe to try! Do not give up if your pastry doesn't turn out as expected the first time. You will get better with practice. Certainly a very useful and super versatile basic recipe to have in your repertoire. 

I will keep updating this post as I make it again and again. Please do leave your comments for me, would love to hear from you!


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